Paracas Peru

And the Ballestas Islands

Paracas Peru and the Ballestas Islands

If you’re anything like us, then you know that there’s nothing quite like the thrill of adventure and discovery. And that’s exactly what you’ll find in Paracas, Peru, home to the stunning Ballestas Islands.

Located on the southern coast of Peru, about 250 kilometers south of Lima, Paracas is a small town with a big heart. Known for its natural beauty and rich history, it’s a place that has captured the hearts of travelers from all over the world being describes as where the desert meets the sea.

We highly recomend booking a tour of the Ballestas Islands.

Ballestas Islands - the poor man's Galapagos

What makes Paracas Peru truly special is its proximity to the Ballestas Islands. Dubbed the “Poor Man’s Galapagos,” these islands are home to an incredible array of wildlife and natural wonders. From sea lions to penguins to dolphins, there’s no shortage of amazing creatures to be found here.

One of the most fascinating things about the Ballestas Islands is the sheer number of animals that call it home. It’s estimated that there are over 150 species of marine birds, including the Peruvian booby and the Inca tern. In fact, the islands are so important to bird conservation that they’ve been designated a “Hemispheric Reserve” by the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network.

Of course, it’s not just the wildlife that makes the Ballestas Islands so special – it’s also the natural wonders you’ll find here. The rock formations are truly otherworldly, with towering cliffs and arches carved out by centuries of wind and waves.

Our Paracas experience & Ballestas Islands tour

 vWe caught an early morning PeruHop bus from Lima south to Paracas on the second day of our trip to Peru.

After picking up the other hoppers around Lima and driving to Paracas, we arrived at midday with empty bellies. Our first stop was Ceviceria Rustikerreta, one of many excellent looking restaurants along Paracas’ beach front malecon.

We sat outside and enjoyed our meal. Being in Peru during their winter, the skies were a bit cloudy and the water was cold. Coming here in the warmer months looks like a blast! The giant inflatable on-water playgrounds, kayaks, and other water activities made us a little jelly that we weren’t visiting Paracas in warmer weather.

After a great meal, we decided to join some folks from the bus watching team Peru play their World Cup qualifier. We had planned to rent scooters to ride through the Paracas natural reserve, but it was fairly cold and the chance to join in on the World Cup party felt too good to pass up. We headed to Kokopelli hostel for the game and some drinks.

For two Americans, watching the Peruvians cheer on their team was a total blast. People brought drums, noisemakers, and trumpets to cheer on their boys in red. The group chants and songs were a huge highlight.

That evening we checked out Restaurant Paracas for dinner. Great ceviche, a wonderful view from the patio tables, and a great Pisco sour!

Getting to the Ballestas Islands is easy enough – just hop on a boat tour from the port in Paracas Peru. The tours are affordable, usually costing around $20-30 USD per person, and last about two hours. On these boat tours, you’ll be treated to stunning views of the coastline and some of the most amazing wildlife you’ll ever see.

We met the dawn, and our guide, to board a boat in the Paracas marina. The dark sea was stirring a bit like the inside of a blender. Nothing our rain jackets couldn’t fix.

We set sail from the marina in Paracas and traveled about an hour out to the islands. Stopping on the way to learn about, and admire, the candelabra. The candelabra is a mysterious geoglyph etched into the side of a hill. No one knows for sure who created it or why, but it’s believed to date back to the Paracas culture, which thrived in the area around 500 BC.

As the storm approached, the choppy sea worsened. Waves began to swell tossing the boat up and down. The bow nearly disappearing beneath the crest multiple times.  These were probably the most rough seas I’ve ever been on in a small boat, but somehow that made the experience all the better. It felt less like a pleasure cruise and more like an expedition.

Once you reach the Ballestas Islands, you’ll be surrounded by a cacophony of sounds and sights. Sea lions bask in the sun on the rocky shores, while penguins dart in and out of the water. Birds fly overhead, swooping and diving in search of fish. Millions of birds. Like Hitchcock level number of birds. It’s quite the site to see.

Perhaps what makes the Ballestas Islands truly unforgettable is the sense of awe and wonder you’ll feel as you witness these amazing creatures and sights up close. It’s impossible not to be moved by this place.

As we sailed back to the port in Paracas, full of gratitude and wonder we came across a pod of dolphins back in the more protected area of the bay. Watching dolphins zip through the water and play is a pretty sweet way to cap off the morning. 

The Paracas Peru National Reserve was our destination for the remainder of the morning. It’s super cool that this tour is actually included in the PeruHop ticket. You get a tour through some of the major attractions of the reserve. 

The reserve is approximately 335,000 acres (135,000 hectares).

It was established in 1975 to protect the marine and coastal ecosystems of the Paracas Peninsula and the adjacent waters of the Pacific Ocean.

In addition to being home to the Ballestas Islands, it is also known for its stunning landscapes. Two big highlights for us were the red sand beaches and the La Catedral overlook. 

The sea arch known as La Catedral was an icon of the coastline of Paracas, and judging from pictures it was really something. Unfortunately, the rock formation was largely destroyed in the 2007 earthquake that devastated the Pisco region. The lookout is still a stunning view of towering cliffs and vast desert landscapes. 

Where we stayed, ate, and drank

Hotel Gran Palmas

Restaurant Paracas

Cevicheria Rustikarreta

Bones & Memory Travel

Trips

Blogs

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