Merida, MX
Yucatan's La Ciudad Blanca
Merida Mexico, the heart of the Yucatan
Mérida, the vibrant heart of the Yucatán Peninsula, where every street corner holds a story and every tortilla comes packed with a mouthful of tradition.
Think endless lanes lined with pastel-hued colonial houses, a culinary scene that will make you question everything you knew about Mexican cuisine, and a rich tapestry of cultural experiences that range from mind-bending Mayan ruins to hushed, hidden cenotes.
Mérida is a pulsating, centuries-old city that knows how to wear its history with style and a dash of picante.
Merida is known as Mexico’s white city because of the predominance of limestone used to build many of it’s colonial buildings. To us, the golden city seems a more apt name. The warm Mexican sun lights every surface with a vibrant glow, it’s extremley safe, and the people are amazing!
Upon setting foot in Merida, we were instantly enveloped by the city’s rhythm. One that pulses through the grand colonial-era buildings, echoes in the bustling local markets, and resonates from the ruins that hold tales of the ancient Mayans. As self-confessed history enthusiasts, we found ourselves as wide-eyed as kids in a candy store.
It wasn’t just the echoes of the past that stole our hearts, but the equally captivating colonial architecture. One stroll down the historic Paseo de Montejo, and we were smitten. The European-style mansions, some impeccably preserved, others aged gracefully, make for a street that’s practically an open-air museum. The Casa Montejo and Merida Cathedral stand as yet more proof of this city’s timeless allure.
In between our bouts of historical admiration, we dove fork-first into the delectable Yucatecan cuisine. From savory cochinita pibil to the tangy sopa de lima, our taste buds embarked on an adventure of their own. And while our waistbands might argue, it’s hard to stick to a diet in a city that’s practically a culinary wonderland.
But let’s get one thing straight; the real magic of Merida lies in its people. Their warmth and genuine hospitality is like a Yucatan sunshine that never fades. And boy, do they know how to celebrate life! From the rhythmic jarana dances that spontaneously light up the city squares to the energetic carnivals that bring the streets to life, Merida’s spirit is truly infectious. Before we knew it, we were caught in the midst of it all, swaying to the local tunes.
If you’re looking for a destination that will surprise, charm, and perhaps teach you a few dance steps, Merida is it. Take it from us, this city has a way of leaving its imprint on your heart. And who knows, you might even return with a newfound appreciation for sombreros and salsa.
A brief history of Merida and the Yucatan
The history of Mérida and the Yucatán Peninsula is deeply intertwined with the history of the Maya civilization, which began to develop around 2000 BCE.
Preclassic Period (2000 BCE – 250 AD)
The preclassic period saw the rise of the first complex societies in the Maya region, including the Yucatán. During this period, the Maya people developed agriculture and established the first small villages and ceremonial centers.
Classic Period (250 AD – 900 AD)
The Classic Period was the height of the Maya civilization, marked by the development of city-states, significant advances in science, astronomy, and mathematics, and the construction of monumental architecture. Though most of the Maya city-states were located in what is now Guatemala, Belize, and Chiapas, there were also important sites in the Yucatán, including Uxmal and Chichen Itza.
Postclassic Period (900 AD – 1521 AD)
The Postclassic period began with the mysterious collapse of the Classic Maya civilization. This collapse was characterized by a decrease in population, abandonment of cities, and a shift in power dynamics. However, in the Yucatán Peninsula, this period saw the rise of new city-states such as Mayapán. It was during this period that the Spanish first encountered the Maya.
Spanish Conquest (1521 AD – 1821 AD)
In 1521, following the conquest of the Aztec Empire, the Spanish turned their attention to the Maya. Resistance was fierce, and the conquest of Yucatán took several decades. The city of Mérida was founded in 1542 on the site of a Maya city called T’hó. The Spanish built their city using the stones from the destroyed Maya buildings. zthis gives the city. very unique architectural flavor today.
The Spanish settlers called the city Mérida, in honor of the ancient Roman city Mérida in Spain.
Throughout the colonial period, Mérida remained relatively isolated from the rest of Mexico due to geographical barriers. Because of this, the city developed a distinct identity and culture that was deeply influenced by the indigenous Maya, but also bore the hallmarks of Spanish colonization.
Mexican Independence (1821 AD)
After Mexico declared its independence from Spain in 1821, Yucatán joined the new nation. However, Yucatán declared its own independence in 1841 due to political and cultural differences with the Mexican government, but this was short-lived, and Yucatán officially rejoined Mexico in 1848.
Caste War (1847-1901)
From 1847 to 1901, the region was gripped by the Caste War, a violent conflict between the Maya people and the descendants of the European settlers. The war began as a rebellion against oppressive labor conditions and discrimination, but it eventually turned into a long-running guerrilla war. The conflict had a significant impact on the Yucatán, leading to a decrease in population and economic activity.
The “Green Gold” Era
The term “Green Gold” refers to the henequen industry that was a major economic driver in the Yucatán Peninsula, especially in Mérida, during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Henequen, also known as sisal, is a type of agave plant that was cultivated primarily for its strong, fibrous leaves. These fibers were used to produce a variety of products, including rope for ships, twine, and sacks.
The henequen boom brought wealth and prosperity to Mérida and the surrounding regions, which is why it was referred to as the “Green Gold” era. The revenues from henequen exports allowed for significant modernization and expansion of Mérida, contributing to the construction of many of the city’s notable buildings and landmarks. Haciendas where henequen was processed were established throughout the Yucatán, many of which can still be visited today.
However, the industry also had a darker side. The labor-intensive production process was often carried out by Maya workers under conditions akin to servitude. This period of economic prosperity was therefore also characterized by significant social and economic inequality.
The Green Gold era came to an end in the early 20th century, due to several factors. The Mexican Revolution, which began in 1910, disrupted the industry and led to significant social and political changes. The advent of synthetic fibers in the mid-20th century also contributed to the decline of the henequen industry.
Despite the end of the Green Gold era, henequen still plays a role in the Yucatán’s economy today, albeit a much smaller one. The plant is used in the production of traditional crafts and souvenirs, and some henequen haciendas have been converted into museums, hotels, or event spaces, contributing to the region’s tourism industry.
20th Century and Beyond
In the latter part of the 20th century, Mérida evolved into a modern city with growing industries in textiles, construction, food processing, and more. Tourism also emerged as an important sector due to the city’s rich history, vibrant culture, and proximity to major Maya archaeological sites such as Chichén Itzá and Uxmal.
Mérida is also known for its safety, cleanliness, cultural events, and high quality of life. Its colonial heart features Spanish-era buildings such as the Mérida Cathedral and the Plaza Grande, which still serve as important gathering places for locals and tourists alike. The Paseo de Montejo, inspired by French boulevards, is lined with grand mansions from the henequen boom.
Mérida remains a vibrant blend of Maya and colonial heritage with modern amenities. The city is renowned for its commitment to preserving its cultural history, with numerous museums, art galleries, and festivals that celebrate its unique Yucatecan identity.
Day 1: Exploring Paseo de Montejo
We arived to Merida fairly late in the evening on our flight from Denver. We settled into our hotel, explored the main town square, and ate a fantastic meal at Chaya Maya before calling it an evening.
The next morning, we set out on foot to explore Merida’s colonial and green gold era gem, the Paseo de Montejo.
Paseo de Montejo is Merida’s very own slice of European elegance, is a grand boulevard that made us feel like we were stepping into a different era. As we strolled down this spectacular avenue, it was as if time had paused to sip a cup of coffee at one of the charming sidewalk cafes.
Named after Francisco de Montejo, a Spanish conquistador credited with founding modern day Merida, Paseo de Montejo is the physical embodiment of Merida’s prosperous past during the sisal boom of the 19th and early 20th centuries. The wealthy sisal barons of the time showcased their affluence through their splendid homes lining this avenue. Most of the mansions and the general layout of the boulevard with it’s wide sidewalk and towering folliage is modeled on French and Parisian streets.
The roughly 3km long boulevard stretches from the edge of Merida’s historical center northward to the Monumento a la Patria. This is a stunning monument located in the middle of the avenue’s roundabout was created by sculptor Romulo Rozo. It tells the history of Mexico through a series of intricate carvings. With it’s boutiques, cafes, restaurants, and cultural attractions strolling the Paseo de Montejo makes for an amazing day in Merida.
We bagan our day with a breakfast and coffee at Cafeteria Impalla near the southenr end of the Paseo before making our way north to the Monumento a la Patria to admier the sculpture and snap a few photos. The walk was amazing, but Merida is HOT. Like really hot. We were visiting in June when average temperatures averaged in the upper 90s Farenheit with himidity in the upper 70th percentile. We were swampy messes by the time we pulled into La Bottega for a cold beer.
Casas Gemelas
After a quick lunch, we decided to make our way back along the Paseo de Montejo toward the historical center of Merida stopping at some museums along the way. Our first stop was 495 Paseo de Montejo, one of the so called Twin Houses. In 1904, henequen baron Ernesto Cámara Zavala and his sister Maria Cámara Zavala commissioned French architect Gustave Umbdenstock to build the twin mansions. Building began in 1906 and they were finished in 1912. They were among the first houses in the Yucatan to have electricity and originally had huge tropical gardens, orchards and stables.
The Casas Gemelas, or “Twin Houses”, are two of the most iconic buildings located along the Paseo de Montejo in Merida, Yucatán, Mexico. They are so named because of their nearly identical facades.
In 1964, the twin houses were purchased by the Barbachano Herrera family and many of their favorite antiques, family paintings and photos are also on display, including one of President John F. Kennedy who was a family friend. He never visited the house, but Jackie Kennedy is said to have stayed after his death. Visiting this living museum was an amazing glimpse into history and how the wealthy lived during the time of the henequin boom.
Regional Museum of Anthropology and History
Our next stop was the Palacio Cantón, which is one of the most impressive buildings in Merida. It also happes to function today as the Regional Museum of Anthropology and History. The layers of history within these walls made for an awesome afternoon of exploration. And the AC didn’t hurt the experience at all!
The Palacio Cantón was constructed between 1904 and 1911 as a residence for General Francisco Canton Rosado, who was a military officer and governor of the Yucatán. The building was designed by Italian architect Enrico Deserti, and the construction was overseen by Manuel G. Canton Ramos.
The structure is an excellent example of Porfirian architecture, the architectural style named after Mexican President Porfirio Díaz, who encouraged European cultural influence in Mexico. It exhibits a neo-classical style, with elements inspired by the French Beaux-Arts movement, evident in its finely detailed facade, grand staircase, ornate balconies, and marble statues.
This place is a stunner. We had to stop a few times while admiring the amazing Mayan artifacts on display to just awe at the building we were in.
After General Canton’s death, his family continued to live in the house until 1932. It was then acquired by the Yucatán state government and later passed into the hands of the federal government. In 1966, it was converted into the Regional Museum of Anthropology and History.
The museum’s collections primarily focus on the Maya civilization that once dominated the Yucatán Peninsula. It houses an array of Mayan artifacts, from stone stelae and sculptures to ceramics and jewelry.
Apart from the permanent collection, the museum regularly hosts temporary exhibitions and cultural events. We particularly enjoyed the exhibit on modern art using traditional Yucatan weaving practices.
We finished off the evening with some drinks at Cantina Balam, an amazing little oasis bar tucked away near the historic center of Merida. The botanas and cocktails were amazing, and they make one of the best micheladas DJ has ever had.
We did dinner at Coyote Maya. They serve modern twists on classic Yucatecan food, and have a great Cochinita Pibil that you shouldn’t sleep on. We sat on their patio, serenaded by a local musician playing a ton of instruments from a guitar to a classic mayan flute.
Day 2: Exploring Merida
We bagan day 2 bright and early meeting Eduardo of Mike and Duck tours. After a quick breakfast we started one of the best walking tours we’ve been on anywhere. Eduardo is so much fun, and so proud to share his hometown of Merida with new friends.
The tour covered a lot of major sites that we really suggest you check out.
Merida City Tour
Plaza Grande (Zócalo): this is the heart of Merida where locals and visitors alike gather to socialize. The square often hosts events and performances, especially on Sundays when the streets around are closed to traffic, making room for artisanal markets and traditional Yucatecan dance performances. The streed food here is top notch!
Cathedral of San Ildefonso: Located on the east side of Plaza Grande, it’s one of the oldest cathedrals in the Americas, built between 1561 and 1598. It’s constructed on the site of a former Mayan temple, and some of the stone used to build the cathedral was taken from the ancient Mayan structures.
Casa de Montejo: On the south side of the Plaza Grande, this building is the former mansion of the city’s founder, Francisco de Montejo y León “El Mozo”. Built in 1549, the façade is a beautiful example of Spanish Plateresque style architecture.
Palacio Municipal (City Hall): Adjacent to the Government Palace, it offers a beautiful view of the Plaza Grande from its upper balcony.
The Gran Hotel Mérida is an iconic establishment located on Calle 60, just around the corner from Plaza Grande, in the heart of Mérida. It’s one of the city’s most beloved historic buildings and a great base to explore the city due to its central location.
The hotel is housed in a charming colonial building that dates back to the early 20th century. The architecture is a beautiful example of the French neo-classical style that was popular during the Porfiriato era, a period in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when President Porfirio Díaz encouraged European influences in Mexican architecture and culture.
The building’s façade is adorned with elegant wrought-iron balconies and detailed moldings. Inside, you’ll be welcomed by a grand marble staircase, antique furniture, and high ceilings, all of which contribute to an atmosphere that transports you back in time.
One of our favorite stories Eduardo shared (besides his haunting encounter with an Alux), was about the origins of the Merida confidant chair.
The sillas confidentes are a unique feature of Mérida and have become a symbol of the city’s public spaces. You’ll find these paired, often ornately decorated, wrought-iron chairs in parks, plazas, and promenades throughout Mérida.
The design of the chairs is such that two people can sit facing each other, promoting conversation and interaction. This embodies the warm, social nature of the Yucatecan people, who are known for their friendliness and hospitality.
These chairs are a part of everyday life in Mérida. Whether it’s friends catching up, lovers whispering sweet nothings, elderly people watching the world go by, or tourists resting their feet, these seats are always filled with people and stories.
Legend has it that the chairs were originally designed to allow young couples to talk under the watchful eyes of a chaperone. The young man and woman would sit in one chair each, facing each other for a chat, while the chaperone would sit a little distance away, able to observe but not listen in on the conversation.
Today, they are more than just seats; they are a part of Mérida’s identity, and a testament to the city’s commitment to creating public spaces that foster community and connection. The confident chairs are so iconic, in fact, that they’ve even been incorporated into the city’s logo!
Mercado San Benito
If you know us, you know we love a good market. DJ loves buying local produce to have for snack and really loves cooking a few meals following local recipies at our Air BnBs. Markets also have some of the absolute best food stalls in nearly every city we’ve been to. So, we decided to venture into Mercado San Benito, Merida’s largest market.
Ever been in the belly of the beast? Well, that’s how our visit to Mercado San Benito felt. If Merida were an animal, San Benito would be its rumbling stomach, full of the city’s raw, undigested essence. And, let us tell you, it’s not for the faint-hearted.
We waded through a sensory storm of clashing colors, pungent aromas, and the chaotic music of haggling voices. The market is vibrant and unapologetically real.
The market is located in the heart of Mérida, just a few blocks north of the Plaza Grande. It’s housed in a large building, which was constructed in the 1940s to replace the previous market that had become too small to accommodate the growing population of the city. It felt to us less like a single building and more like an entire city within the city with neighborhoods grouped by the products being sold. From fresh flowers to household goods, produce, meats, and huge area of food stalls.
San Benito isn’t a walk in the park. It’s more of a stumble in the dark, where every turn can either lead to a delightful surprise or a plot twist. Exploring the endless aisles was a blast.
Visiting Mercado San Benito felt like gatecrashing a family reunion – loud, overwhelming, slightly embarrassing, but incredibly endearing. This wasn’t a sanitized, Instagram-ready version of Merida. It was Merida in its sweat-soaked, salsa-stained glory. And we wouldn’t have it any other way.
We found some of the most amazing food we had all trip at the market. We stopped at one of the many taco al pastor stalls all colored in red and sat down for some home cooked Yucatan classics at Carmita la Mesticita in the “food court” area for lack of a better term.
Afternoon Drinks
After a morning of walking and an afternoon of exploring the market, we were more than ready to sit down with a couple of drinks to just chill before our evening plans.
We made our way to the highly recomended Pipiripau bar, which wasn’t far from our hotel. We had heard this place can get jumping at nights and on the weekends, but they also have an oasis of a courtyard that was really calm and relaxing when we went around 4pm. The drinks here are great, the art in the courtyard is really fun, and the staff is super friendly. We ‘d highly recomend it.
After Pipiripau bar, we headed for murcielago mezcaleria. A small upscale cocktail bar tucked away near the theater, murcielago caught our eye the prior evening. DJ has been a mezcal lover for ages, and this bar single handledly changed Rosanna’s outlook on mezcal!
We really enjoyed the bartender at murcielago. He was super knowlagable about Mezcal, really fun to chat with (he worked in LasVegas for years and had hilarious stories), and made some amazing cocktails. The kiwi mezcal-rita made a mezcal fan out of Rosanna. Every drink we had here was fantastic and the chipolinas (crickets) we had with guac became an instant favorite!
The bar is named murcielago (bat) because the amazing furry little creatures play a pivotal role in the polenation and spreading of seeds of the agave plant.
Bats are important pollinators for many species of agave, including those used in the production of mezcal and tequila. Bats, such as the Mexican long-nosed bat (Leptonycteris nivalis) and the lesser long-nosed bat (Leptonycteris yerbabuenae), have a significant role in the pollination of agave plants.
Agave plants typically have flowers with long tubular shapes that open at night. These flowers are adapted to attract bats as pollinators. Bats are attracted to the strong fragrance and nectar produced by the agave flowers, and while they feed on the nectar, they inadvertently transfer pollen from one flower to another, facilitating pollination.
The relationship between bats and agave plants is mutually beneficial. Bats rely on the nectar as a food source, while the agave plants rely on the bats for pollination. Without the bats’ assistance, the agave plants would struggle to reproduce and produce seeds.
Fun fact: bats are DJ’s favorite animal and he even has a tattoo of one on his forearm.
An evening at the theater
We were really taken by the graduer of the José Peón Contreras Theater during our tour of Merida and had been really interested in seeing a show there. So we decided to grab tickets to see the symphony.
The Yucatán Symphony Orchestra, or Orquesta Sinfónica de Yucatán (OSY), is a jewel in Mérida’s cultural crown. Established in 2004, it has since become an integral part of the Yucatán’s vibrant arts scene.
Under the baton of esteemed conductors, the orchestra offers a regular season of concerts, generally from February to December, and we were lucky enough to be in Merida for a performance. So we got dressed up and headed out for a night at of amazing music.
As we approached the theater, the grandeur of its neoclassical façade took our breath away. We felt as if we were about to step into a page from a history book. But trust us, the exterior, as stunning as it is, is only a glimpse of the spectacle inside.
Upon entering, we were welcomed by a stunning spectacle of art, design and a total scene. The people of Merida go all out for a night at the theater. Everyone was dressed up, there was a step and repeat photo op. The whole nine yards, which really made for a fun experience.
The intricately carved moldings, grand chandeliers, and gold leaf accents are a testament to a time when theater was not just a pastime, but an event. It’s easy to imagine the elite of Merida’s past attending opera and theater performances here, soaking in the culture amid the theater’s opulence.
With its velvet seats, grand stage, and enchanting ceiling fresco, it’s easy to feel like we were extras in a period film. We could almost hear the echoes of past performances, whispers of long-forgotten scripts, and applause resonating from the plush seats.
It’s not every day you find such a harmonious blend of cultural richness, architectural splendor, and artistic talent. This theater truly embodies the spirit of Merida—proud of its heritage, yet constantly evolving, just like a well-rehearsed act that never grows old.
Day 3: Mayapan & the Magic of Cenotes
Day 3 was all about exploring the areas outside of the city of Merida. We loaded up our rental Jeep and headed out to explore Mayan archeological sites and cenotes outside of the city.
We started day three with a visit to a food stall we had been drooling over for the entire time we were planning this trip. Taqueria La Lupita. To the uninitiated, it might be just another street-side taco joint, but we’ll let you in on a little secret – it’s where you’ll find some of the best damn tacos in Merida, possibly the entire Yucatan Peninsula, if not the world.
Nestled in the corner of Mercado Santiago, La Lupita doesn’t come with fancy tables or a snazzy menu. Instead, you’ve got plastic chairs, a small bustling kitchen, and a wafting scent of sizzling meats that could lead a vegetarian astray.
We ordered an assortment of tacos, because why not? From the succulent cochinita pibil to the Relleno Negro, every bite was a amazing. It was like being hit with the taco equivalent of a ‘greatest hits’ album, where every track is a chart-topper. Literally everything on the menu is amazing, and their salsas are crazy good – and super spicy!
As we sat there, sweating profusely in the sweltering heat, wolfing down tacos like there’s no tomorrow, we had to question our life choices. Why do we travel thousands of miles to eat street food in blistering heat? Why do we endure the cacophony, the language barriers, the bouts of food-induced comas? And as we bit into another divine taco, the answer dawned on us – because it’s freaking worth it.
Mayapan Acheological Site
After two days exploring Merida, we couldn’t wait to see some Mayan ruins up close and personal. So we headed to Mayapan a short drive from the city.
As luck would have it, we scored the jackpot of tour guides for our foray into this archaeological wonder. Our guide was a delightful enigma – part historian, part comedian, and full-time Mayan enthusiast. Imagine a hybrid of Indiana Jones and George Carlin, armed with a wealth of knowledge and a quick wit that could slice through the Yucatan’s sweltering heat. The man could’ve narrated paint drying, and we’d still hang on to his every word.
Mayapan is a large archaeological site located approximately 40 kilometers southeast of Mérida. It’s often referred to as the “last great Maya capital,” as it was a significant political and cultural center during the Late Post-Classic period from the 13th to the 15th century. This was the final flourish of Mayan civilization before the Spanish Conquest.
The city was relatively compact compared to other Mayan cities, spanning about 4 square kilometers. Despite its small size, it was densely populated, with an estimated 12,000 to 15,000 inhabitants living within the city walls, and another 10,000 living in the surrounding areas.
One of the most striking features of Mayapan is the Temple of Kukulcan, a pyramid that is similar in design, albeit smaller in size, to the one found in Chichen Itza. In fact, Mayapan is often called a “miniature Chichen Itza” due to the architectural similarities, although Mayapan is much less visited and you can actually climb the pyramid!
Another notable structure is the Observatory (El Observatorio), which reflects the Mayans’ advanced understanding of astronomy. They used this circular building to observe the movements of celestial bodies and to create their remarkably accurate calendar.
Mayapan is known for its murals, some of which are still visible today. These murals provide valuable insights into the society, religion, and everyday life of the Maya during this period. You can see representations of Mayan gods, people at work, and scenes of battles and sacrifices.
The city of Mayapan was abandoned around the 15th century, for reasons that are still debated among scholars. Some evidence points towards internal social conflicts, possibly an uprising against the ruling class.
Visiting Mayapan offers an invaluable opportunity to understand the history and culture of the Maya civilization. While it’s not as well-known as sites like Chichen Itza or Uxmal, it’s a fascinating site that’s rich in historical and cultural significance.
Mayapan might not have the fame of Chichen Itza, but it boasts a quieter, more intimate charm. Plus, less crowds equals fewer selfie sticks to dodge. So, win-win. As we roamed around the site, our guide wove stories with the finesse of a Mayan weaver at the loom. Pyramids, temples, and cenotes transformed from silent stone structures to vibrant narrators of a bygone era.
We heard tales of ancient rituals, celestial alignments, and power struggles – an age-old soap opera set in limestone and stucco.
Standing at the foot of the towering temple of Kukulcan, we felt a strange mix of awe and understanding. Being able to actually (respctfully) touch and climb the structure made for an incridible experience that brought the past to life.
The highlight, though? The breathtaking panorama from atop the temple. After huffing and puffing our way to the top (who needs a gym when you have ancient pyramids?), we were rewarded with a view that stretched endlessly. It was easy to see how Kukulcan himself might feel like a god standing atop this pyramid with a view of seemingly the entire world.
Cenote Nah Yah
Visiting cenote Nah Yah was one of those really special moments you get sometimes while traveling. A true experience we’ll never forget. A special moment to add to our collection.
In a land that’s home to thousands of cenotes, Nah Yah was one that felt like our very own secret oasis, hidden in the heart of the Yucatan Peninsula. It’s a place that deserves its own soundtrack, something cinematic and sweeping that makes you feel like you’ve just stepped into another world.
Getting there was an adventure in itself. A winding path led us through a lush jungle, each turn revealing more of nature’s vibrant palette. The air was alive with the sounds of wildlife, the rustling of leaves, and our excited chatter.
Then, as we rounded the last bend, it appeared. Nah Yah, this underground wonder, revealed itself in the muted daylight, surrounded by rugged rock formations and lush foliage. The turquoise water, eerily clear, reflected the cavernous ceiling above, peppered with stalactites that looked like nature’s own chandeliers. For a moment, we simply stood there, awestruck, absorbing the otherworldly beauty of it all.
Cenotes are natural sinkholes or wells resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes the groundwater underneath. They’re particularly associated with the Yucatán Peninsula of Mexico, where there are estimated to be over 6000 cenotes, although only a fraction of these are explored and registered.
Over thousands of years, rainwater, which is slightly acidic, seeps into the cracks of the limestone bedrock, gradually dissolving it and forming underground caverns. When the roof of these caverns can no longer support its own weight, it collapses, revealing the cenote.
In Mayan culture, cenotes held significant religious and cultural importance. They were seen as gateways to Xibalba, the underworld, and were often used for sacrificial offerings. Swimming alone in Cenote Nah Yah, it was very easy to see how one could consider these places sacred. They feel like a portal to another world.
Before we entered the cenote, we asked permission from the Alux, as advised by Eduardo, our guide who showed us around Merida and shared his own personal story about the Alux.
Alux are mythological creatures in Mayan folklore. The Alux are generally associated with natural features like forests and fields, but particularly with caves and cenotes.
Alux are believed to be guardian spirits, called upon by Maya farmers to protect their crops. They’re often imagined as being small, dwarf-like creatures, dressed like miniature Maya in traditional attire. Aluxes are invoked by building a small house or shrine (kahtal alux), where offerings can be made to encourage their protection.
Legend says Alux can be mischievous or even malicious if they’re not respected. There are stories of them causing mischief, like moving objects, making strange sounds, and even causing illness. or haunting your dreams. To keep them appeased, it’s believed that one should always ask their permission before entering a cenote or a cave, or before clearing a field for planting. So, we did. We asked the Alux permission before entering the cool waters of the cenote.
It’s strange how you can feel a sense of profound silence and serenity, even as your heart races with anticipation. Slipping into the cool, clear water of the cenote was like stepping into a different realm. The outside world fell away, replaced by the tranquil symphony of our gentle strokes and echoing drips from the ceiling above. We were alone but not lonely. Surrounded by the grandeur of Nah Yah, we felt a powerful connection – with nature, with the ancient Maya who revered these places, and with each other.
We swam, we laughed, we floated, and marveled at the dreamlike quality of the experience. The water’s clarity allowed us to see the fascinating underwater formations, like an artist’s masterpiece that only we were privileged to view. The echoing acoustics of the cenote made our laughter ring out, filling the cavern with joyful sounds that felt intimate and personal. Time seemed to stretch, and for a while, it felt as though Nah Yah had been created just for us, a stunning spectacle of nature’s artistry.
Dinner at Museo la Gatronomica
When it finally came time to leave the cenote and head back to Merida for our final night, we were torn. It was sad to be leaving such an amazing adventure, but we were also super hungry and looking forward to our final meal in Merida.
One the road back we even spotted some kids selling cotton candy (in our rearview mirror), and stopped to grab some for the ride. It was super fun to chat with them as they rode their bikes!
The Museo de la Gastronomía Yucateca (Museum of Yucatecan Gastronomy) is a unique venue dedicated to the rich culinary heritage of the Yucatán region.
This museum is located in a colonial mansion in Mérida and offers a deep dive into the region’s gastronomy, with a particular focus on the influence of Mayan, Spanish, and other cultures.
Exhibits at the museum include displays on various local ingredients, cooking tools, and traditional methods of food preparation.
One of the unique features of the Museo de la Gastronomía Yucateca is that it doesn’t just display food and related items. The museum has its own restaurant. And this restaurant is GOOD! The food was amazing, the cocktails were unique and creative, and sitting in the beautiful courtyard behind the giant wooden doors was a great way to wrap up our first trip to Merida.
Day 4: Day Trip to Izamal
Izamal is a charming city located in the Yucatán Peninsula of Mexico, roughly 72 km east of Mérida. Known as “the Yellow City” due to the color of most of its buildings, and “the City of Hills” because of the numerous remains of ancient temple pyramids, Izamal has a deep historical and cultural significance.
It made for a great day trip to get out of Merida and explore a little. We actually spent the day in Izamal and headed on toward Chitchen Itza rather than heading back to Merida, but Izamal is an easy back and forth day trip if you wanted to do that.
The city of Izamal
In ancient times, Izamal was a major center of the Maya civilization and one of the largest cities in the Northern Yucatán. It was a significant religious destination, including a pilgrimage site dedicated to the Maya sun god, Kinich Kak Moo. Today, the impressive pyramid dedicated to this god remains one of the most important sites in the city.
Despite its small size, Izamal is a city of great cultural importance. In 2002, it was named a “Pueblo Mágico” (Magic Town) by the Mexican Secretariat of Tourism, a designation given to places in the country that offer a ‘magical’ experience due to their natural beauty, cultural richness, or historical relevance.
Izamal continues to be a place of religious pilgrimage, as it was in Maya times, but now for the Catholic saint, the Virgin of Izamal. The city also hosts the Festival of the Virgin of Izamal every year in her honor.
The bright yellow color that dominates the city of Izamal, Mexico, has a symbolic religious significance. The city is home to the Convent of San Antonio de Padua, which was built on the base of a Maya pyramid. The convent is devoted to the Virgin of Izamal, the patron saint of the Yucatán, and many miracles have been attributed to her. The yellow color, accompanied by white accents, is dedicated to her and represents the golden light of God’s divine mercy, radiating throughout the city.
The use of yellow is not uncommon in Catholic symbolism, where it often represents light, purity, and the divine. The decision to paint the city this color was meant to symbolize the town’s devotion and create an atmosphere of sanctity, aligning with its deep-rooted religious significance.
There’s a reason they call Izamal the “Yellow City.” It’s like the sun got drunk one day and spilled its contents all over town, and the result is nothing short of marvelous. This town, nestled just about an hour’s drive from Merida, is one of those spots that makes you feel like you’ve walked straight into a postcard. Or a Wes Anderson film, take your pick.
At the heart of Izamal is the Convento de San Antonio de Padua, a former Mayan pyramid turned Franciscan monastery. The monks clearly had a thing for grandeur, because this place is massive. We huffed and puffed our way up to be greeted by a sprawling courtyard.
We sauntered around, breathing in the history etched into the weather-worn stones, and imagining what life might have been like for the Maya who once called this place home. The dichotomy of the place didn’t escape us; how many other places in the world can claim to be both an ancient pyramid and a 16th-century monastery?
Wandering through Izamal’s narrow, sun-drenched streets, we felt like time travelers who had stumbled upon a secret portal. The sounds of modern life were muted, replaced by the echo of our footsteps against cobbled stones, the distant laughter of children, and the soft murmur of the afternoon breeze. It’s hard not to be swept up in the romance of it all.
Late Lunch at Kinich
Kinich, what a gem! Tucked away in the heart of Izamal, this restaurant was like discovering an oasis in a desert, except instead of water, we were met with mouthwatering Yucatecan cuisine and decor that felt like a jaunt back in time.
Stepping into Kinich felt like walking into a lush secret garden. The restaurant is arranged around an open-air courtyard, fringed with tropical foliage. Colorful murals and decor added a touch of home, making it feel more like you are eating at someone’s house than an amazing restaurant. But the pièce de résistance had to be this massive carving, eerily reminiscent of Olmec’s head from the ‘Legends of the Hidden Temple.’ Ah, the ’90s nostalgia hit us harder than a shot of good tequila.
The menu was a culinary love letter to the flavors of Yucatán, but it was the queso relleno that emerged as the hero of our meal.
Edam cheese, hollowed out and stuffed with a delicious mix of minced pork, tomatoes, peppers, olives, and capers. Now, imagine that bundle of joy being slowly cooked in a traditional pit oven until the cheese is all melty and gooey, and the pork is savory and tender. The result? A burst of flavors that made our taste buds sing a mariachi tune. It was the kind of dish that made us wish we had bigger stomachs or maybe a second one.
We’d highly recomend a meal at Kinich if you are in Izamal. You will not regret it!
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